Where to go
Spain
Things to do in Seville
Seville, a popular local song proclaims, has a special colour. What that colour is is up to the eye of the beholder. Is it the honey-hued Giralda belfry? The green gardens of the Royal Alcazar? Or the blue tiles that adorn Plaza de España? Or the 50,000 orange trees dotted around the Andalusian capital? As a city, Seville boasts world-class attractions. As a destination, Seville spoils you for choice, offering culture, nature and gastronomy – all served with a dollop of passion. Top things to experience in Seville include the Cathedral of Santa Maria, the former Jewish district in Santa Cruz, a tapas tasting session and a flamenco show. There are also dozens of less-heralded attractions such the palaces of its nobility and the history-steeped General Archive of the Indies. Top six things to do in Seville 1. Visit the Cathedral and climb the Giralda The world’s largest Gothic church, a belltower that’s inspired countless imitations across the world and the tomb of Christopher Columbus. It’s fair to say that Seville’s Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See is a showstopper. Then there are the lavishly decorated chapels dedicated to monarchs, saints and virgins, the Renaissance sacristy, the baroque tabernacle and an altarpiece packed with more than 200 figures. You can also climb the 104-metre-tall belfry, known as La Giralda, which began life as a mosque’s minaret. The 360° views from the top over the city are camera-grabbingly good. And then outside, there’s the soothing tranquility of the Patio de los Naranjos, where the sweet smell of orange blossom drifts through the air. 2. Wander around Plaza de España and Parque de María Luisa Most trade fairs and expositions are dismantled once the party is over. In Seville, the legacy of the Iberian-American Exposition of 1929 lives on in the Plaza de España and Parque de María Luisa. So much so that they’ve become Hollywood stars. If you think you’ve seen Plaza de España before, it’s because you have – as the planet Naboo in Star Wars. While Parque de María Luisa houses among its trees the extravagantly decorated pavilions of many of the participating nations and Spanish regions. 3. Explore the palaces of Seville When it comes to palaces, the Royal Alcazar is the jewel in Seville’s crown. Originally an emir’s fortress, it became the palace of Castilian kings after the Christian conquest of Seville in the 13th century. Its Patio de las Doncellas has also been sprinkled with Hollywood stardust, featuring in Game of Thrones and Kingdom of Heaven. And then there are the gardens – a real haven in the heart of the city. Not to be outdone by the monarchs, the city’s nobles also built sumptuous places for themselves. The tiled walls of the Casa de Pilatos, the priceless Roman mosaics of the Palace of the Countess of Lebrija and the bougainvillea-clad Palace of the Dueñas are all must-visit attractions in their own right. 4. Stroll around Santa Cruz Tucked in between the cathedral and the Royal Alcazar, the labyrinth of whitewashed alleys that is Santa Cruz is the sort of place where you find your inner compass. Every turn leads to a new source of wonder, be it a cool square lined with orange trees or a flower-festooned laneway in the Juderia, the former Jewish quarter. 5. Treat yourself to tapas and flamenco The origins of tapas and flamenco are still disputed in Spain, but few would quibble that Seville has a strong claim to both. Both are omnipresent throughout the city. Venues putting on flamenco shows – known as tablaos – tend to be compact but hugely atmospheric. While any bar worth its salt will have a counter laden with tasty tapas and legs of cured ham hanging from the ceiling like stalactites. If you fancy gorging yourself, head to the Triana district on the left bank of the River Guadalquivir. Its market and streets are packed with unpretentious tapas bars. Triana is also where many of Seville’s top tablaos are. So, make it a day in Triana. 6. Discover the new world at the General Archive of the Indies The General Archive of the Indies is the least well-known of the triangle of monuments that make up Seville’s UNESCO World Heritage Site – the other two are the cathedral and Royal Alcazar. Especially as it’s opposite the other two and free in. Which makes it all the more worth a visit. Located in a Renaissance palace, it houses a priceless collection of documents chronicling Spain’s conquest of the ‘New World’. The most famous of these is the Treaty of Tordesillas – the original is on display – that divided the Americas between Spain and Portugal. You don’t have to be a history buff to be impressed by the archive’s regular exhibitions.